Two hours south of the crowded capital of Athens, Greece on the Peloponnesian Peninsula is the first capital of modern Greece, Nafplion. The hamlet and its surrounding enclaves has a population of only around 33,000 people compared to the 650,000+ of hot and busy Athens. The beautiful old harbor town is cooled by the gentle winds off the water, giving you an ideal place to spend an afternoon or whole vacation.

The Venetian influence on the architecture is predominant with many brown and tan stone three- and four-story buildings with gabled roofs and terra cotta shingles. A special charm will overwhelm your senses as you walk down the narrow streets between houses with wrought-iron balconies overflowing with hanging baskets of flowers.

A note from Zeke’s journal on his first visit to Nafplion in 1998.

The main square, Syntagma Square, is much smaller than its Athenian counterpart and makes you think you’re in the middle of an Italian piazza. The cafes along its borders beckon you to take a seat and have a coffee in the afternoon. When evening comes you may find yourself along the promenade to enjoy a drink or gelato and watch the people stroll along the water front.

When you look up in Nafplion you inevitably see the Palamidi Fortress, originally a Byzantine construction, it was eventually occupied by Venetians and Ottomans. I suggest taking a taxi or finding a ride to the fortress and taking in the stunning views of the town and the sea beyond. The other fortress in the neighborhood is the Boutzi Fortress, built in 1471, that sits in the harbor and is now home to a summer concert series you can reach by boat.

Three beaches (you’re in Greece so you must want to go to the beach) are within a short drive via bus or car, all less than seven miles away. Tolo Beach, Nea Kios and Kandia Beach all offer crystal clear water and soft sand. Tolo is the most developed, with restaurants and beach club amenities, the other two are less developed but still offer places to eat, stay and play.

I consider Nafplion as one of the best values for your dollar when visiting Greece. You get the sun and the sand without the island mark-up. The hotels in and out of town are bargains; you can easily find rooms for under $100 a night. I stayed at the hotel Leto years ago and a quick check on Trip Advisor shows they’re still getting great reviews.

I really think Nafplion is a great home base for exploring a lot of ancient sites like Mycenae (the home of Agamemnon of Homer’s Iliad 30 minutes away), Sparta (the home the famous 300 1.5 hours away), Mystra (the last refuge of the Byzantine Emperors 1.5 hours away), and Ancient Olympia (the site of the original Olympic Games — though it’s 3.5 hours away by car, you might want to spend the night there).

The elegance and grace of the city is the perfect place to return to after a day hiking through ancient ruins in the hot sun. The Peloponnese is full of history and wonderful places — off the tourist routes — and since it’s basically an island itself, there are hundreds of miles of coast to explore.