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A Walk Around DuPont Circle

DuPont Circle Sign

DuPont Circle in North West Washington, DC is probably one of the most vibrant and cosmopolitan neighborhoods in the nation’s capital. You can’t walk a block without coming across a restaurant, bookstore, bar, or club. The active, open and alternative nightlife is often what draws the college crowd from across the city.

One of the most amazing things about this neighborhood is just that, it is a neighborhood. The area, bounded by Rhode Island Avenue, NW and M and N Streets, NW on the south, Florida Avenue to the west and Swan Street to the north, is a living, breathing neighborhood where people live, eat, shop and work. The community has an interesting history, too, as one of the earliest planned communities in DC, and is a monument to the architecture of the gilded age of the 1880s.

The marble fountain in the center of the circle.

The marble fountain in the center of the circle.

The neighborhood is centered around DuPont Circle, a traffic circle and park at the intersections of Massachusetts, New Hampshire and Connecticut Avenues.

Note: Wherever two state avenues intersect in DC it results in a traffic circle.

The circle was originally called Pacific Circle and had a statue of Rear Admiral Samuel Frances DuPont in commemoration of his civil war service. The statue was later replaced in the 1920s by the massive two-tiered marble fountain you see today.

DuPont Circle

The statues represent the Wind, the Stars, and the Sea.

The statues represent the Wind, the Stars, and the Sea.

The two kinds of houses that predominate the neighborhood are palatial mansions of the gilded age and two- three- and four-story rowhouses mainly built during the 1900s.

Many of the homes have been converted into apartments.

Many of the homes have been converted into apartments.

The Whittmore House (also known as The Weeks house) is presently home of the Woman’s National Democratic Club 1892. The copper-covered oriel bay is punched and tooled (see photos below) and gives hint of the industrial age and designs that would follow. The rest of the house is designed in the American Shingle style, setting it apart from the French style predominating the neighborhood. It also has the honor of being one of the first houses in the district with electricity.

The Whittemore House

The Whittemore House

The detail of the punch and tooled copper.

The detail of the punch and tooled copper.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Perry Belmont

The Perry Belmont House

The Perry Belmont House easily stands out among the stately manors of the community. Designed in the Beaux Arts style in 1901, the house sits on a trapezoidal lot designed to take advantage of the space. The stately former home of Perry Belmont takes the form of a freestanding pavilion in a French style. The interior is filled with iron fixtures from France, wood from Germany, and marble from Italy. It’s eclectic, and somewhat odd when you consider that the former congressman was also the ambassador to Spain.

The building was home to lavish parties in the winter months for the Washington elite, and in 1919 housed Edward, Prince of Wales, as a guest on a state visit. Belmont, a freemason, sold the home to the masons and it’s now the home of the Order of the Eastern Star.

The unfortunate thing about many of the historic homes in DuPont Circle is they are not open to the public. So you’ll just have to do what I did and admire the architecture from the outside. (You may want to wait for warmer weather. It would be much more pleasant with temperatures above zero.) You may be able to contact some of the buildings that have been turned into embassies or businesses and work something out on a one-on-one basis.

 

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England Bound

With the holidays winding down it’s time for Amanda and me to start planning our winter break. Most of the time, Amanda gives me a budget of a couple thousand dollars and we escape to some place with crystal clear water and warm temperatures. I can’t express how much I look forward to running away to a tropical oasis each year.

But, this year is different. We made a promise we intend to keep; and that means we won’t be getting off the plane and feel a warm breeze in our face.

We'll be exchanging our dollars for British pounds in 2015.

We’ll be exchanging our dollars for British pounds in 2015.

We’re planning a trip to England. Yes, England — the rainy island — in February. If you’re concerned about miserable weather, well, you’ve got that kind of right. The temperatures that time of year tend to be in the 40s (the island rarely gets snow). The average temperature for that time of year in our home base in Pittsburgh hovers just below the freezing mark.

The other hang-up that comes to mind is, “isn’t that expensive?” Well, yes, it is compared to Mexico or the Caribbean. We will have to double our budget to around $4,000 about half of that is just the airfare. I already know it will take me hours of searching for the right flights in order to keep those tickets to $1,000 apiece.

We’re planning on spending two nights in London (at about $150 a night or below) so we can catch one or two of the city’s highlights Amanda hasn’t seen. We then plan on renting a car (from preliminary estimates, the cheapest part of the trip so far) and heading to the southwest coast, stopping at Stonehenge along the way. I do suggest to anyone visiting England to make the trek to Salisbury to visit the ancient monoliths. The simple stone circle will take your breath away.

The main goal, and the entire reason we are skipping the sun, is to visit some friends. I have known Kate for years, and she and her husband recently opened a bed and breakfast, the Anchor Inn, next to his family’s pub. We plan on staying there a few days and catch up on the last several years as well as explore the small seaside towns and villages.  So, that’s it. I’ll keep you all in the loop as the departure date is set and the prices we plan on paying and the reality of what we are getting for the price.

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You Drop What?

I’m not certain who started it, my guess is probably the New Years Eve Times Square party in 1908 when they lowered a crystal ball down a pole starting at one minute to midnight to celebrate the beginning of the new year. Since then all over North America other towns have decided to drop their own balls (and/or other items) to ring in the new year. The ball or ball substitute often is chosen to be unique to the local culture, so here are some that can make you question the word “culture” like an anthropologist observing a lost civilization.

Eastport, Maine – Maple Leaf

The folks of Eastport, Maine drop a Maple Leaf down a flag pole at 11 pm to celebrate Midnight in the Canadian Maritime, who are on Atlantic Time, then drop a “Great Sardine” to celebrate in Eastern Time in Freeport, Maine.

Bethlehem, Pennsylvania – Peep

The peeps in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania (home of everyone’s favorite marshmallow Easter treat) drop a 100-pound glowing yellow Peep. The Peep drop is part of a festival known as Peepfest to celebrate everything we love about the creations of Just Born Quality Confections.

Plymouth, Wisconsin – Big Cheese

Well don’t ya know, the people of Plymouth, Wisconsin gather for the Big Cheese Drop as they munch on complimentary cheese hors d’oeuvres and watch an 80-pound decorated cheese wedge descend from a ladder truck to great applause.

Hagerstown, Maryland – Donut

You’d imagine Homer Simpson would be a big fan of this one, in Hagerstown, Maryland –The Donut Drop. The main square in this western Maryland town becomes the center of attention as a massive donut is lowered to celebrate the new year. This just in: This year the donut will drop into a massive cup of coffee.

Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania – Ball Raise

We couldn’t leave our new hometown off the list, could we? Pittsburgh’s countdown to the New Year doesn’t lower anything; the ball is raised. The ball atop Penn Avenue Place goes up, and then the fireworks go off. You knew there’d be fireworks, right?

Wherever you are and whatever you drop (or raise) we hope you have a happy and safe New Year.

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Passengers Behaving Badly

These days, I feel like it’s noteworthy if I can make it through a flight without being astonished (and annoyed) by the behavior of some of my fellow passengers. You’ll find plenty of examples on the Passenger Shaming Facebook page that leave me shaking my head.

Why do some people turn into toddlers having temper tantrums when they travel? Science suggests there’s a psychological root to the problem: the feeling of being out of control. It’s no excuse, of course, but at least it makes sense. Someone else is driving, you have to obey a long list of rules (including some that may seem ridiculous), you’re crammed in a small space with a bunch of strangers — it’s not ideal all around.

If you’re traveling this week, try to remember — and avoid — these bad behaviors:

Disrespecting Others’ Space

Tight quarters make some people push the boundaries of ‘their’ space. Ever witnessed any of these?

  • Headrest grabbers — if I had a dollar for every time I’ve seen a passenger grab a headrest as he or she tries to get in or out of the row I’d be a wealthy woman. Unless that seat is empty, do your best to leave it alone. I was finally asleep on an international flight last year when someone grabbed my headrest and pulled my hair on his way out of his seat. I wasn’t pleased.
  • Armrest hoarders — I sat next to one on a short flight home on a business trip. He contorted himself in very interesting ways so he’d never leave either armrest free. Honestly, it made me laugh.
  • Kickers — from kids (or even adults) kicking your seat from behind to fellow passengers kicking your feet (yes, that’s happened to me), flailing about seems to be a common response to a sardine situation. Just don’t, okay?
  • Aimless aisle dwellers — I was on an international flight with a woman who thought nothing of standing in the aisle for more than an hour … with her derriere in another passenger’s face. I completely understand needing to get up and move during a long flight, but respect  that there are people around you.

Are you picking up on a theme? Be aware you’re not the only person on the plane.

Abusing the Flight Attendants

I kid you not, these things have actually happened in front of my very eyes:

  • A passenger filled out his customs paperwork incorrectly — twice — and proceeded to tear the forms into tiny pieces and scatter them on the floor. Just… why?
  • The same guy had trouble with his in-flight entertainment system and yelled for the flight attendants to come set it up for him, repeatedly. Notice he yelled; no call button needed when you can bellow!
  • On a flight to Athens, Greece we flew with a group of college students who got so incredibly drunk the police were called to meet them at the gate when we arrived. Having a drink (or even a few on a long flight like that) is just fine, but save the all-out bender for after you land.

We’ve all witnessed awful behavior while traveling; what was the last act that astonished you?

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Gift List 2014

The holiday season, aka gifting season, is upon us. For those of you who have procrastinated, here’s your heads up: As of this posting there are only 10 shopping days left.  So, for all of you who are stuck looking for a gift for the traveler in your life here is a quick list of a few thing we thought were pretty cool.

The Bemo calls itself the “social” video camera.  The small, yet rugged camera will let you record high-quality video and includes a time-lapse function. You can sync the camera with your phone and easily upload video to your social network after downloading an app. Pretty handy for sharing your travels while you’re still traveling! The Bemo Social Video Camera by Logitech runs about $119.

The Keyprop Keychain Stand ($12) is a simple but brilliant attachment for your smart phone. The key-shaped device fits on your key chain and plugs into your phone allowing it to be propped up so you can watch all the YouTube and Netflix you want without the inconvenience of holding up your phone.

If you have a photographer in your life, the Manfrotto Tri Backpack ($65) is a sensible and rugged camera bag. The design allows you to store your DSLR and 1-2 additional lenses. The backpack has adjustable straps that let you carry it like a backpack or messenger bag. The shell is water repellant and has a secondary rain protector that allows you to create a barrier between the inside and outside of your bag. The dimensions of 16″ x 9″ x 8″ make it the perfect carry-on for a plane.

Trackdot ($50) lets you know where your bag is even if it isn’t in the same city you are. The 3″ by 2″ device can sit in your luggage and is constantly pinging the network to determine its location. When you fly the device goes to sleep. When the bag lands, the device in your luggage wakes up and reports its new location. You can choose to be notified via text message or email. This can be a particularly helpful device when your carry-on has to be gate-checked. You’ll know if your bag made the trip as soon as you land; no more hoping and praying and worrying as you make your way to the baggage claim.

You can get the art lover and travel lover the same gift with these airport posters from 08left ($25). The frame-ready designs of airport codes and maps can be the perfect piece of art for your favorite travel enthusiast.

I often talk about the importance of journaling your travels and personally love using Moleskine Notebooks ($9-$30). The feeling of writing down your adventures in a bound hardback notebook can make you feel like a great explorer or writer like Livingston or Hemingway.

Zeke taking a moment to keep some of his adventures in Tanzania

Zeke taking a moment to write down some of his adventures in Tanzania in a Moleskine journal.

If you’re concerned your gift recipient might think they’re too cool for old fashioned pen and paper, Moleskine now has a cross-over notebook. The Livescribe Notebook ($30) is only the first in a line of paper notebooks that take what you write and transcribe it (via a Bluetooth pen) to an app. To better explain we’ll just quote the Moleskine website:

 ”The notebook features the iconic Moleskine design details, from the familiar rounded corners, ivory-coloured pages and ribbon bookmark to the elastic closure and “in case of loss…” label printed on the flyleaf. Its center-stitched binding ensures the notebook lies flat, for an enjoyable writing experience. The on-page commands which enable quick access to the app’s features, including voice recognition, have also been redesigned in the Moleskine style. Two bookmarks are stored in the back pocket with further commands for the Livescribe smartpen. Lastly, the debossed pattern on the cover subtly recalls the design of the smartpen, a perfect finish for this innovative tool that bridges analog and digital.”

We don’t always take our DSLRs and a dozen lenses with us when we travel, and instead rely on our phones for our snapshots. If you find yourself taking more phone-based photos, you’ll love Printstagram, now called Print Studio.  Their calendar, made of thick paper stock, can help you count the days to your next adventure. You get 365 prints for $40. You can also get posters, stickers, note cards and much more, by syncing your Instagram account.

We wish you happy shopping, happy holidays and a year full of travel adventures in 2015.

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Setting the Holiday Mood in Pittsburgh

The holiday season in Pittsburgh begins with a bang — a lot of bangs to be accurate.

I’m not sure what it is about this town and its pyromania, but I have witnessed more fireworks in the last 10 months than in my entire life before our move. Light Up Night, which ushers in the Christmas season the Friday before Thanksgiving, had no less than three separate fireworks displays in one night (and none of them short, either). I truly think the last one, set off from the Warhol Bridge, lasted 30 minutes or more. Downtown Pittsburgh is filled with a series of tree lightings, free carriage rides, concerts and activities for all ages during this kick-off festival. Half a million people attended the event this year.

The Market Square is converted into an open-air “German Christkindlmarkts” (Christmas Market). The vendors operate out of miniature alpine-style chalets, selling a mix of traditional gifts like hand-painted ornaments, hand-carved sculptures, nutcrackers and pottery, all with an old European flair. You’ll also find fair trade artisans crafting jewelry, ceramics and wall hangings. Shop up an appetite? Don’t worry, there’s plenty of food in the Market, too. The Yule Haus serves up homemade frankfurters, brats, soups, crepes and strudel, all washed down with a generous mug of hot cider or cocoa.

The downtown also has some more modern new world traditions right out of classic Christmas movies, like Miracle on 34th Street.  One of the highlights of Light Up Night is the unveiling of the windows at Pittsburgh’s Macy’s Department Store — yes, Macy’s. I know we don’t see them much anymore but Pittsburgh has a Macy’s right downtown, not attached to a shopping mall.  The retail giant spends a lot of time and money to create a displays in their large windows. The holiday scenes not only entice shoppers to come in, but have also become an attraction all by themselves, putting every passerby in the spirit of the season.

How is your town celebrating the season? Do you have any unique local traditions?

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“That Quaint Little Village”

Shop Small

I hear it all the time when talking about visiting Italy, or any other country in Europe: “We just loved this quaint little village. It had all these little shops and cafes; we could have spent hours there.”  I’m sure if you travel, or you know people who do, you’ve heard the same thing (or perhaps a blog post waxing poetic about the simple village life).

I admit to loving those independent mom-and-pop stores, selling everything from used furniture and books to jewelry.  There’s something about spending the afternoon meandering down a narrow street, popping into shops selling hand-crafted goods, before taking a seat at a restaurant or café to relax and people watch as they stroll across the piazza. It sounds like the perfect way to spend the afternoon in a European hamlet.

-BREAKING NEWS, AMERICA-

OPENYou don’t have to hop across the pond to find that “European Village” experience.  You can often find that “quaint little village” near you, right here in the US.  You probably drive by (or even through) them every day, but because they aren’t in 400-year-old stone buildings you may not notice them.

The Small Business Administration reports that as of 2010 there were 27.9 million small businesses in the US, all with less than 500 employees. 1.5 million of those businesses are retail and restaurants/bars/cafes with far fewer than 500 employees.  The National Retail Federation says 94.5% of businesses have only one location.

You know what that means? Just over 5% of stores are big box stores. The small mom-and-pop stores of your European dreams (or your nostalgic recollection of Main Street USA), are closer than you think. You just need to find them.

Yesterday was Shop Small Saturday, an annual reminder that the small businesses in your neighborhood need and deserve your support.  You’ll often find the owners on-site and willing to go out of their way to help you find what you need with their near encyclopedic knowledge of everything pertaining to their businesses.

Next time you’re heading out to a big box store, stop for a moment and ask yourself,”can I get that downtown?” I find an extra dollar or two is well worth knowing I’m helping a friend or neighbor rather than a billion-dollar corporation.

The Downtown of Frederick is flooded with people each weekend during the holidays.

The Downtown of Frederick is flooded with people each weekend during the holidays.

You may or may not live in an area that’s fortunate to have a thriving local business district. Frederick, Maryland is a great example (and the streets were full yesterday to prove the point!). But remember, the key to creating or keeping locally owned businesses booming is shopping in them. Even if you just  buy one thing, one gift for someone special on your list, it goes a long way toward supporting the local shops and creating the “quaint downtown” of your dreams right in your own backyard.

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Venice: Leave Your Rolling Luggage at Home

If you’re planning a visit to Venice, choose your luggage carefully. The city council is said to be considering a ban on rolling luggage, at least for tourists. While residents would still be allowed to use bags with wheels, tourists could be fined $620. The rationale? Rolling luggage is noisy on the city’s labyrinth of cobblestone walkways.

But before you chalk this up as a ridiculous rule, mutter something about Italians and change your travel plans, consider this: rolling a bag through Venice is a pain. You’ll be much happier with a backpack or duffel bag.

We know this from experience.

On my (Amanda’s) first trip abroad, I packed the bag I owned at the time — a roller. Zeke and I were on our first trip together, 10 days in Italy. We arrived in Venice after 30 hours of (budget-friendly, but inconvenient) travel, and that’s when I learned rolling luggage and the Venetian streetscape don’t mix well.

Aside from the cobblestones (not conducive to a smooth wheeling experience) and narrow, serpentine streets and alleys, Venice is chock full of bridges spanning its famous canals. Most of those bridges feature at least a few stairs (more wheel trouble). On top of that, most hotels are not equipped with elevators, so you’ll be toting your bag up at least a flight or two of stairs. Save yourself the awkwardness (and perhaps a fine if the ban is enacted) and bring a backpack!

Look, Ma! No Wheels!

Ten days worth of clothes still doesn't weigh as much as my camera gear.

No wheels, Africa style.

After that first trip to Italy, I invested in a backpack. More recently, we used duffel bags (above) for our safari.  I still use my rolling luggage for business trips (car/airport/taxi/hotel is easy on wheels), but if I’m traveling abroad I’m more likely to use my pack. We’ve been to Greece twice and on our African safari without wheels, and agree each of those trips would have been significantly more difficult if we had to roll everywhere.

 

 

 

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Remembering Normandy

The past week held Veterans Day here in the US and Remembrance Day in the British Commonwealth, which inspired me to focus on that legendary battlefield from the second world war, Normandy, France.

The first place to visit, even if you aren’t a battlefield buff, is the coastline of D-Day beaches: Sword, Juno, Gold, Omaha and Utah Beaches.  I recommend watching “Saving Private Ryan” or “The Longest Day” before visiting if you aren’t a history buff, to give you some context. Walk to where the surf meets the sand and look across the beach toward the mountainous sand dunes; try to imagine running from surf to dune as bullets rain down on you and your friends. Then imagine only about half of you make it off the beach.

D-Day, courtesy: Library of Congress

D-Day, courtesy: Library of Congress

The beaches aren’t the only places to search for history, there are several museums along the 50-mile stretch of beach: Airborne Museum, Centre Juno Beach (dedicated to Canadian Troops),  and The American Cemetery and Visitor Center overlooking Omaha Beach. The American Cemetery is the eternal resting place of 9,387 servicemen killed in action in the land they fought to liberate.

The D-Day invasion was code-named Operation Overlord and Overlord Tours is a highly recommended tour company that will take you from beach to beach with a skilled tour guide. D Day Historian tours is another company with a high Trip Advisor rating, offering private tours. They also focus on the roles women played in the invasion.

The coastline has a history dating back far longer than the last 100 years, of course, and is filled with other sights that will astound you. Mont Saint-Michel Abbey is considered to be one of the most picturesque sights in all the world. The abbey, first constructed in the year 1144, sits on a small part-time island just off the coast.  I say part-time because at low tide it’s surrounded by sand and at high tide it’s surrounded by water. The 1960’s romantic comedy Romanoff and Juliet points this out by reminding visitors that the airport is only open when the tide is low.  The island is also the setting for the esoteric film Mindwalk, where three people walk around the city discussing “meaning of life” stuff. You can pay to tour the abbey, which most guidebooks do recommend, for $12.

The final place we’ll suggest is Claude Monet’s house and garden. I am a sucker for impressionism and Monet was the best.  You can walk in his garden, the inspiration for many of his paintings (including the famous Water Lilies), from April through November for $11.  The great artist lived in this house in Giverny for 43 years and the Claude Monet Foundation has painstakingly preserved the master’s home, considering the inspiration for his paintings was as important as the paintings themselves.

The places mentioned here are just a smattering of the history and scenery you can find in the north-west of France.  I suggest taking a peek at the Normandy official website for more ideas.

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Dolphin Discovery

Ages ago, my family took a summer vacation to the Caribbean. We enjoyed a week of sun, sand, and the absolutely gorgeous water that’s kept me (and now Zeke) returning to the area as often as possible. On the same trip, my sister and I asked my parents if we could try swimming with dolphins. They agreed, and we were in for an experience I’ll never forget.

My sister and I signed up for the dolphin encounter at the Blue Lagoon Island dolphin sanctuary on Nassau. We hopped in the water as part of a group of about 10 people. The two dolphins were full of personality, swimming up to people in the group and interacting with us even without being prompted by the friendly trainers. The dolphins seemed genuinely thrilled to play with us; one even swam right up to me and splashed water in my face (unprompted).

In turn, each person in the group got to touch, kiss and play with these playful, intelligent creatures. After we were well acquainted, we each got to experience the foot push. I swam out into the middle of the lagoon and floated on my stomach. The dolphins swam up behind me and each put a nose on one of my feet, pushing me through (and up out of) the water with incredible power and speed.

As you might have gathered by now, I loved every moment.

This trip was long before I met Zeke, but I’ve always thought he’d love the experience. This year, on our anniversary trip to the British Virgin Islands, we took a day trip to Tortola and visited Dolphin Discovery. It was just as excellent as I had hoped!

We were fortunate to visit the center on a very slow day. We had four young dolphins and four trainers working (and playing) with just the two of us! The dolphins, Romeo, Juliet, Angela and Watson, were still learning their cues and behaviors, which only made the experience more fun in my book.

Juliet gives Zeke a sweet kiss during our visit to Dolphin Discovery on Tortola.

Juliet gives Zeke a sweet kiss during our visit to Dolphin Discovery on Tortola.

Romeo, in particular, was eager to perform. It took the two of us a few tries to get the belly ride just right. For that trick, I swam out into the water and put one arm out by my side. Romeo swam up behind me, upside-down, I grabbed on to his fins as he swam by, and he towed me — belly-to-belly — back to the edge of the natural pool. He was so excited to show off this skill that he’d often swim up behind me without being signaled to do it (I heard “where’s Romeo?” a good bit during our swim!). Since these dolphins are being trained using positive reinforcement, I was asked to resist the urge to hop on and take the ride unless the trainer had given the signal.

We touched, kissed, danced with and received belly rides from each of the dolphins. For young Angela, it was her first interaction with humans who weren’t trainers. She was fantastic, and seemed to have almost as much fun as we had.

Once we had played with all of the young dolphins, we moved to another enclosure where two adult dolphins — Hippo and Ayala — showed us a good time. Zeke and I each got to grab on to a boogie board and be pushed through the water (sounds familiar, doesn’t it?) by these much stronger dolphins. We also got to try to belly ride on their much larger bellies.

I had an amazing day, but sharing it with Zeke made it even more delightful. I caught myself standing back, watching him interact with our new friends, and couldn’t help but smile. We had made this adventure an anniversary gift to each other, and it was a hit for both of us.